Wild Rose Natural Born Keller

Reviewed by on December 6, 2013 in Local Heroes Guide

The Details

  • Brewery: Wild Rose Brewery

  • Origin: Calgary, AB

  • Rated On: March 31, 2013

  • Best Before: June 30, 2013

  • ABV: 6.0%

  • Ideal Temperature: cool to cellar temperature

  • Style: Kellerbier (ish)

  • Rating: GREAT !!

The Review

Wild Rose is a brewery that started operations in 1996, and grew out of its original location in Calgary’s Foothills Industrial Park in 2006, which prompted a move to their current digs in Building AF23 in the Currie Barracks, an old Canadian Forces Base.  They make a host of year-round offerings across styles, and produce seasonal rotational and one-off bombers (no connection to CFB Calgary) like this one, which seems to be an attempt to defy style categorization, but where there’s a will, there’s a way.  Elements of California Common, Kellerbier, and Bock are incorporated to create a strong lager with fuller, ale-like characteristics.  Oh, and don’t forget the label, with the ornery-looking cartoon goat (an ode to the base bock beer), and one of the more groan-worthy beer pun names of late.

This 650ml bottle pours a mildly hazy, but at the same time bright medium brick-tinted amber hue, with three fingers of fluffy, muted white whipped-cream head, which leaves some swollen rain cloud lace around the glass as it recedes like it has little else to do that day.

It smells of biscuity, dry bready malt, toffee, small hints of orchard fruit, and herbal, leafy hops. Quite enticing, I’d say. The taste is more sharp biscuity, grainy malt, yeasty rising bread, a developing green, earthy herbal essence, persistently ethereal drupe fruitiness, some prominent hard water minerality, and a fairly tangy leafy, grassy hoppiness.  The carbonation is a tad peppy and frothy, the body a decent medium weight, and a little astringent in its otherwise plain Jane smoothness. It finishes rather dry, that mildly yeasty, biscuity, and snazzy hop character making it very hard to not just slug this whole thing back.

There is a certain subset of German-style beers (most often those actually from das Vaterland) where their main asset is truly their drinkability (sorry Budweiser), in that they are indeed tasty, and yet defy circumspection, mostly because the cursed glass is empty before you can string two coherent thoughts together. Yeah, this is a lot like that.

Brady White

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