Widmer Omission Lager

Reviewed by on February 6, 2015 in Gluten-Free Guide

The Details

  • Brewery: Widmer Brothers Brewing Company

  • Origin: Portland, OR, US

  • Rated On: February 6, 2015

  • Best Before: N/A

  • ABV: 4.6%

  • Ideal Temperature: cold to cool

  • Style: American Pale Lager

  • Rating: GOOD !

The Review

Like its pale ale brethren, the Omission Lager from Portland’s Widmer Brothers is made with malted barley, ‘specially crafted to be gluten-free’, and coming in at <20 ppm.  Use that info as you will.

This 12oz bottle pours a slightly hazy, pale golden yellow colour, with two fingers of puffy, rocky, and mildly bubbly dirty white head, which leaves some well spread-out sudsy and striated lace around the glass as it quickly recedes.

It smells of crisp, grainy pale malt, wet saltine crackers, breakfast biscuits, watery lemon juice, ethereal petrol fumes, and leafy, earthy, and dead grassy hops. The taste is more bready, grainy pale malt, just a touch of corn-bred sweetness, now totally sodden discount brand soup crackers, subtle gasohol notes, and still prominent earthy, weedy, and grassy hops. The bubbles are quite understated in their plainly frothy ministrations, the body medium-light in weight, and generally smooth, a small airy creaminess manifesting, right where I was looking for something more sinister. It finishes just off-dry, the graininess of the tinkered-with malt still prominent enough to keep those apparently noble hops more or less honest.

Forget gluten-free, this is one of the better lagers, period, that I’ve had in a long while. Crisp, tasty, and well-rounded, with a few old-world nods, the kind that make me shake my head when I reconsider the point of this brew in the first place.  Why can’t all gluten-free or -reduced brews have this one’s fullness of character?  Oh, right – the ‘regular’ beer-scape is fraught with the same spread issues.  Anyways – this is very much worth checking and seeking out.

Brady White

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