The Dandy Une Vieille Maîtresse Grisette

Reviewed by on July 29, 2016 in Local Heroes Guide

The Details

  • Brewery: The Dandy Brewing Company

  • Origin: Calgary, AB, CA

  • Rated On: July 29, 2016

  • Best Before: N/A

  • ABV: 3.5%

  • Ideal Temperature: cool to cellar temperature

  • Style: Grisette

  • Rating: GOOD !

The Review

Calgary’s (The) Dandy Brewing have released a sub-genre of the Farmhouse ale style, whose name literally means ‘an old mistress’, and may also be a reference to the film ‘The Last Mistress’ – ah, qui sait?

At any rate, this 650ml bottle pours a hazy, pale golden yellow colour, with two fingers of puffy, finely foamy, and somewhat fizzy off-white head, which leaves some eroding coral reef atoll lace around the glass as it quickly sinks out of sight.  Lots of continually rising effervescence to boot.

It smells of grainy and crackery wheat and rye malt, mildly edgy Belgo-Franco yeast, a hint of hard water flintiness, some subtle apple and pear skin fruitiness, ephemeral white pepper dust, and some very tame earthy and floral hop bitters. The taste is bready and doughy pale malt, some lessened wheat and rye graininess, a more understated earthy yeast character, hard to discern light pome fruitiness, and more weak leafy, weedy, and floral hoppiness.  The carbonation is quite gentle and caressing in its palate-coating frothiness, the body a decent medium weight, and mostly smooth, with perhaps a wee yeasty pithiness creating more duress than one might have thus far been expecting.  It finishes off-dry, barely, as the mixed malt kind of wavers, but never really falters.

Overall, I’m starting to get the feeling that Grisettes are the more or less simpler cousins of Saisons, in the muddied Farmhouse ale world.  Both the typical yeasty and spicy essences are so downplayed here, it’s sometimes hard to really get a handle on them.  Whatever, this is a plainly easy to drink brew, the lowered ABV and lack of any particular astringencies surely adding to the cause.

Brady White

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