Phillips Polaris Milk Stout

Reviewed by on December 3, 2014 in Winter Guide

The Details

  • Brewery: Phillips Brewing Company

  • Origin: Victoria, BC, CA

  • Rated On: November 29, 2014

  • Best Before: April 12, 2015

  • ABV: 5.5%

  • Ideal Temperature: cool to cellar temperature

  • Style: Milk Stout

  • Rating: GOOD !

The Review

Polaris Milk Stout, named after the current northern pole star, is Phillips winter seasonal, with a sort of psychedelic acid-trip themed label (in actuality it’s a depiction of a Polaris-focused star trail), and at least one egregious ovine pun in the accompanying text.

This 650ml bottle pours a pretty solid black abyss, with two pudgy fingers of puffy, tightly foamy, and somewhat creamy light brown head, which leaves some streaky island promontory lace around the glass as it genially recedes.

It smells of bittersweet cocoa powder, toasty caramel malt, condensed milk, oaten cereal, a wee root beer soda character, and faint earthy, weedy hops. The taste is semi-sweet milk chocolate, weakly roasted bready caramel malt, slightly acrid lactic notes, a lessened breakfast cereal oat graininess, and the same touchy hop notes from the nose.  The carbonation is fairly involved, in a lightly frothy and ebullient manner, the body an adequate medium weight, and generally smooth and creamy, nothing really mussing about here. It finishes on the sweet side, just, the lactose and still slightly charred caramel carrying us out of the mire.

A decent enough version of the style, which is the very least one usually expects from this brewery. Cool that they’re still cranking out new stuff, in light of their Snowcase being one of the trendy gifts du jour in Western Canada right now, the saving grace of every late-arriving beer-lover’s better half this time of year. Anyways, I do digress – this is a pleasant, and tenderly engaging milk stout – maybe stare at the frozen stars in the sky while you drink it.

Brady White

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