GP Brewing Maddhatters Mercury

Reviewed by on April 27, 2016 in Local Heroes Guide

The Details

  • Brewery: GP Brewing Co.

  • Origin: Grande Prairie, AB, CA

  • Rated On: April 27, 2016

  • Best Before: N/A

  • ABV: 5.0%

  • Ideal Temperature: cold to cool

  • Style: American Pale Lager

  • Rating: GOOD !

The Review

GP Brewing is one of the new brewing operations to begin canning in this good province of ours, and this is ostensibly a ‘contract’ brew for their next-door neighbours, the Maddhatters club/pub operation in near-ish downtown Grande Prairie, Alberta.

This 355ml can (supertitled, the ‘Roman God of Lager’ – ok) pours a clear, bright pale golden straw colour, with two fingers of puffy, finely foamy, and somewhat creamy off-white head, which leaves a small amount of sudsy island group lace around the glass as things rather hastily abate.

It smells of gritty, and slightly soured pale malt, a touch of generic breakfast cereal, sort of stale apple and pear fruity notes, further underdeveloped lemon, not so faint earthy pilsner yeast, and very plain leafy, weedy, and musty, um, yeah, less than noble hops. The taste is semi-sweet, grainy and cereal-forward pale malt, a not-so-slight German Pils gasohol thing (filtered through your often unnecessary Peace Country lift-kit ride), still kind of hard to tolerate undead yeast, a fading wan pome fruitiness, and more gentle leafy, musty, and floral hoppiness.  The carbonation is adequate in its supportive and only spare fun-time frothiness, the body a so-so medium weight, and sort of smooth, with that now not so strange ethanol astringency at fault for any perceived transgressions here. It finishes well off-dry, the base cereal grains not knowing when to clock out, it would appear.

Overall, a simple, and not particularly surprising offering for the sort of establishment that, having only driven past it a few times, has left enough, um, ‘impression’ on me that this seems to work as a sort of salve on my general beer conscience as it were. For the locals, this means that it smells and tastes like hockey rink dressing rooms and ill-fated bar-room advances – but in a good way, yeah?

Brady White

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