The Golden Brown Dandy

Reviewed by on February 2, 2015 in Local Heroes Guide

The Details

  • Brewery: The Dandy Brewing Company

  • Origin: Calgary, AB, CA

  • Rated On: February 2, 2015

  • Best Before: N/A

  • ABV: 6.0%

  • Ideal Temperature: cool to cellar temperature

  • Style: English Pale Ale

  • Rating: GOOD !

The Review

The Dandy Brewing Company is a rather new nano-brewing concern from Calgary, Alberta, who are inspired to make British-style ales, a conceit that very much carries through to their marketing – lots of English Lit references abounding.

This 650ml bottle pours a murky, dark burnt caramel colour, with one flabby finger of wanly puffy, loosely foamy, and mostly bubbly beige head, which leaves some decent low-rising rocky shoreline lace around the glass as things readily recede.

It smells of bready, doughy caramel malt, wet crackers, meek oily citrus rind, oversteeped herbal tea, a touch of dead yeast, and earthy, floral hops. The taste is gritty, somewhat biscuity caramel malt, a further bit of watery toffee, understated leafy, citrusy hops, a small orchard fruitiness, and some subtle nutty, slightly boozed-up herbal notes. The bubbles are fairly underwhelming in their outright schmoozing, but still do a bang-up real CAMRA support job, the body medium-light in weight, and so-so smooth, the yeast and heretofore unseen alcohol throwing some skin in the game. It finishes on a drying trend, the biscuity malt character and languishing fruity notes carrying the day.

A decent enough, if kind of innocuous English-style, well, something…yeah, I’m not quite grokking the pale ale denomination that seems so prevalent in online circles (not to mention dead center on the label) – it’s called a ‘Golden Brown’, for starters, people! I’m getting much more of an ESB essence myself, the extra alcohol and heady biscuity notes going a long way in that respect. At any rate, this is a more than pleasant first contact for a nascent Alberta brewer – welcome!

Brady White

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