Fat Unicorn Last Call Blonde

Reviewed by on October 22, 2015 in Local Heroes Guide

The Details

  • Brewery: Fat Unicorn Brewery

  • Origin: Plamondon, AB, CA

  • Rated On: October 22, 2015

  • Best Before: N/A

  • ABV: 5.0%

  • Ideal Temperature: cold to cool

  • Style: American Pale Lager

  • Rating: GOOD !

The Review

Fat Unicorn Brewery (or La Brasserie la Licorne Gras, as they are situated near the heart of Alberta’s French speaking locus – specifically, the hamlet of Plamondon) is one of the newest craft breweries to open up since the provincial law change last year that got rid of minimum production requirements. The artwork and name are a play on that old trope of one’s choices and standards dwindling come closing time – though I’m not quite sure what the ‘Limited Label’ designation means – perhaps that once enough people see it, outcry will cause it to be pulled?  Meh.

This 650ml bottle pours a mostly clear, very pale golden straw colour, with three fingers of puffy, finely foamy, and mildly bubbly bone-white head, which leaves some mangled coral reef lace around the glass as it gently subsides.

It smells of bready, crackery pale malt, lemon rind, a further doughy sweetness, and perky leafy, grassy, and somewhat spicy hops. The taste is grainy, doughy pale malt, a subtle caramel character, some soft aged lemon juiciness, faint earthy yeast, and more playful and agreeable grassy, weedy, and kind of estery floral hoppiness. The carbonation is nice and light in its genteel frothiness, the body a square medium weight for the style, and generally smooth, nothing really existing here that might be prone to mess with things, even to the point of a small airy creaminess. It finishes off-dry, the still doughy malt doing well to keep the home fires a-burnin’, while the hops simply carry on impressing me, full stop.

Not a bad sudden and welcome introduction into the Alberta beer scene, I gotta say – before a few weeks ago, I hadn’t even heard of the town of Plamondon, and now I can say that I’ve had a well-made brew from there. Yeah, blondes (be they lagers or ales) don’t have the greatest street cred, but when they’re made like this, I’d gladly sip away at them while watching the trolling going on at the titular ‘event’.

Brady White

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