Evil Twin Christmas Eve at a New York City Hotel Room

Reviewed by on December 5, 2013 in Holiday Guide

The Details

  • Brewery: Evil Twin Brewing

  • Origin: Denmark

  • Rated On: December 26, 2012

  • Best Before: 2015

  • ABV: 10.0%

  • Ideal Temperature: cool to cellar temperature

  • Style: American Imperial Stout

  • Rating: OKAY

The Review

The name of this beer is somewhat intriguing, as it suggests exhilaration and mild depression, two conflicting emotions on an already heightened  rollercoaster of seasonal to and fro.

At first pop of the cap of this 330ml bottle, I stupidly assumed this would be like any other imperial stout out there, and sit there quietly until I deemed it necessary to tip into the glass. Alas, this wasn’t to be, as after a momentary beat an eruption of thin beige foam jetted forth, coating the entire bottle, like a breadcrumb crust, before starting to pool on the counter. Snapping out of my gaping reverie, I carefully poured this mess into the glass, getting no more than an inch of liquid before the foam halted things once more.

Anyways, after a wee further spell, I am left with a fairly inky blackness, with a basal cola hue, and a thin cap of broadly bubbly tan fizziness, with a weird lack of lace, and some hard to discern swirling sediment.

It smells of a thin roasted graininess, an oily nuttiness, some sour, acetic fruitiness, a light ashy smokiness, and some mild warming alcohol. The taste is a significant step up, imperial stout-wise, with some moderately roasted caramel malt, sturdy bittersweet chocolate, soft cherry and apple tartness, dry black liquorice, and some newfound leafy, floral hop bitterness. The 20-proof booze is rather well hidden, overall.

The bubbles, after their initial outburst, are quite tame and genially supportive, the body a bit too much on the light side of medium weight for the style, but agreeably smooth at the same rate. It finishes on the sweet side, the caramel and chocolate notes persisting, as the tart and bitter aspects peter off just a bit.

A so-so imperial stout, a bit too thin and sour, with not enough weight and roundness to recommend as a repeat imbiber, even though the big ABV is expertly integrated. I’m now guessing that the effervescent opening act helps reinforce my impression of the theme of this offering’s moniker, one which may not be appropriate for more delicate dispositions, whether they be physical or psychological.

Brady White

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