De Molen Winterporter

Reviewed by on January 7, 2015 in Winter Guide

The Details

  • Brewery: Brouwerij De Molen

  • Origin: Bodegraven, Netherlands

  • Rated On: December 19, 2014

  • Best Before: June 10, 2019

  • ABV: 6.7%

  • Ideal Temperature: cool to cellar temperature

  • Style: American Porter

  • Rating: GOOD !

The Review

De Molen is a Dutch craft brewer, who are inclined to make big, robust, and yes, boozy beers, as well as reconstructing other New World tropes like hop-forwardness.  Their Winterporter doesn’t appear to contain anything particularly wintery about it, other than its seasonality of release.

This 330ml bottle pours a clear (I believe), dark, dark ruby amber hue, with a teeming tower of puffy, densely foamy, and bubbly tan head, which leaves a few chunky swaths of snowdrift lace around the glass as it slowly recedes.

It smells of biscuity, bready caramel malt, tart black fruit, bittersweet chocolate, musty yeast, a faint root beer earthiness, and plain weedy, leafy hops. The taste is gritty, grainy caramel and pale malt, semi-sweet cocoa powder, acrid dark fruit – prunes and dried cherries, mostly – a slight sour milkiness, a touch of brown sugar, and earthy, leafy, and slightly grassy hops. The bubbles are rather invasive on the palate, manifesting in a tight fizziness at best, the body on the light side of medium weight for the style, and not particularly smooth, see the carbo report for further detail. It finishes off-dry, the chocolate, caramel, and bready malt doing well to persist, alongside a peppy sour fruitiness.

Definitely pushing the boundaries of what an English Porter should be, what with its attendant sourness, which of course, makes it all the more American in style. Not a bad brew, but they really need to dial down the carbonation a few notches (an unmentioned bottle conditioning, maybe?), and then they actually may be on to something here.

Brady White

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