Dandy In The Underworld Sweet Oyster Stout

Reviewed by on April 10, 2015 in Local Heroes Guide

The Details

  • Brewery: The Dandy Brewing Company

  • Origin: Calgary, AB, CA

  • Rated On: April 10, 2015

  • Best Before: N/A

  • ABV: 5.0%

  • Ideal Temperature: cool to cellar temperature

  • Style: English Stout

  • Rating: GOOD !

The Review

Calgary’s year-or-so old craft suds artisans Dandy Brewing produce this oyster stout, which they thankfully explain the origins of, that is, as an accompaniment to seafood, and not because any bivalves were hurt in the making of it.

This 650ml bottle pours a very dark brown colour, with prominent cola highlights, and one skinny-ass finger of weakly foamy, bubbly, and wispy beige head, which leaves some random paramecia culture lace around the glass as things quickly sink away.

It smells of chalky bittersweet cocoa, bready caramel malt, coffee beans, licorice root, a stoney flintiness, and earthy, weedy, and mildly leafy hops. The taste is nutty chocolate bar, biscuity, and faintly roasted caramel, milk-tinted black coffee, root beer concentrate, and more leafy, earthy, and slightly spicy hops. The bubbles are pretty sedate, barely a tickle to be had here for a guinea, the body a decent medium weight, and smooth, I suppose, the hop edginess making a small dent in these parts. It finishes off-dry, the gritty cocoa, grainy caramel, and plain-Jane nuttiness pushing things a bit beyond the control of those dopey noble hops.

A generally enjoyable zippy English-style stout, one made, as already noted, to match with the eponymous bivalve on a dinner plate, rather than actually having been brewed with it. The overall bearing could use a bit of emboldening, for that matter, but in the end, this is drinkable, as is – an agreeable sentiment for a brewery’s first commercial output, in my tenure as a (usually) discerning beer venerator.

Brady White



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