Brooklyn Silver Anniversary Lager

Reviewed by on April 14, 2015 in Spring Guide

The Details

  • Brewery: Brooklyn Brewery

  • Origin: Brooklyn, NY, US

  • Rated On: April 14, 2015

  • Best Before: packaged April 5, 2013

  • ABV: 8.6%

  • Ideal Temperature: cool to cellar temperature

  • Style: Doppelbock

  • Rating: GOOD !

The Review

This anniversary offering (their 25th, in 2013) from Brooklyn, New York’s eponymous brewery is referred to as an intensified version of their flagship Brooklyn Lager, or more specifically, a doppelbock.  Each bottle is festooned with one of four custom labels courtesy of local artists – this one comes from Joe Amrhein, and is titled ‘A Fallibility of Perception’.

This 750ml caged and corked bottle pours (carefully, at first) a hazy, bright medium copper amber hue, with three fat fingers of tumultuous, thickly foamy, and moderately creamy ecru head, which leaves some random swaths of wispy cloud lace around the glass as it slowly sinks away.

It smells of crisp, sharply biscuity, and toasted pale grain, mild tart citrus rind, wet ashes, a bit of dried-out pine needles, thin butterscotch, and a floating metallic edge. The taste is lightly toasted multi-grain bread, faintly caramelized toffee, buttered biscuits, a mild, but steady grapefruit and orange peel fruitiness, subtle pine resin notes, subtle earthy yeast, and a middling undercurrent of softened stoney booze. The carbonation is up for anything, and sort of fizzy to boot, the body a sturdy medium weight, and not particularly smooth in the face of those bubbles and skulking, if still sneaky, alcohol. It finishes rather short on the off-dry side, most of the sweetness having bled off, leaving us with a continuing barrage of dry, goodly grainy, biscuity, and toasted malt.

Nice to see that this has held up for a few years, as promised by the brewery.  Overall, a pretty approachable, taste-wise, doppelbock, the sadly common sickly pale malt and astringent booze character more or less absent here. The drying tact works to counter those admittedly stereotypical impressions, and the extra (and duly restrained) American hoppiness works well in the service of balance. A concept that one (myself included) may not preserve should this bottle be seen through to its illogical end.

Brady White

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