Avery The Kaiser
Reviewed by Brady White on October 2, 2014 in Autumn Guide
- Brewery: Avery Brewing Company
- Origin: Boulder, CO, US
- Rated On: October 1, 2014
- Best Before: Bottled August 13, 2014
- ABV: 9.5%
- Ideal Temperature: cool to cellar temperature
- Style: Oktoberfest/Märzen
- Rating: GOOD !
This 22oz, gold foil-capped bottle pours a clear, medium bronzed amber hue, with a fistful of puffy, loosely foamy, and generally bubbly off-white head, which leaves some splendid cobwebbed lace around the glass as things genially subside.
It smells of rather sweet grainy caramel malt, indistinct orchard fruit, patch-derived vegetables – pumpkin, natch, and additional squash and zucchini gourd – zesty clove, black pepper, nutmeg, and ginger spice notes, with a heady, yet weirdly understated booze contingent. The taste is fairly strong caramel/toffee malt, a slightly doughy breadiness, ethereal suggestions of sassy buttered biscuits, drupe and pumpkin patch fruit, muddled earthy spice, a hint of phenolic yeast, and yup, a certain unavoidable alcohol astringency. The carbonation is quite unobtrusive in its dialed down frothiness, the body a sturdy medium-heavy weight, and way more smooth than something with such an elevated ABV should have any claim to. It finishes well off-dry, the still underwhelmingly biscuity graininess ceding way to both an innocuous breadiness and a more overtly boozed-up caramelized sweetness.
As expected, this is a pleasant offshoot of the current watched style, rendered in a wholly new-world, American sense – if one is ok with the duly overclocked ABV, that is. An enjoyable sipper, with many a sidelong glance, especially when early October is more brisk than usual.