Anchorage Calabaza Boreal

Reviewed by on February 2, 2018 in Winter Guide

The Details

  • Brewery: Anchorage Brewing Company

  • Origin: Anchorage, AK, US

  • Rated On: February 2, 2018

  • Best Before: N/A

  • ABV: 7.0%

  • Ideal Temperature: cool to cellar temperature

  • Style: Saison

  • Rating: GOOD !

The Review

A collaboration with fellow sour brewing fiends Jolly Pumpkin (hence the name, which means ‘northern pumpkin’), which apparently involved a lot of grapefruit.

This 750ml, caged and corked bottle pours a hazy, pale golden yellow colour, with a teeming tower of puffy, rocky, and chunky bone-white head, which leaves some random, thickly splotched lace around the glass as it quickly abates.

It smells of grainy and crackery wheat malt, sort of stale generic citrus fruity notes, some mild musty funkiness, tanned leather, muddled peppercorn dust, and some plain earthy, leafy and floral green hop bitters.  The taste is gritty and grainy cereal malt, an increasingly funky astringency, still kind of overripe white grapefruit and lemon esters, musty barrel staves, testy rainbow peppercorns, and more understated leafy, weedy, and herbal ‘verdant’ hoppiness.  The carbonation is fairly active in its palate-enveloping frothiness, the body a decent medium weight, and actually fairly smooth, the various potential interlopers taking a smoke break, or something, here.  It finishes trending dry, the saison yeast, miserly malt, and lingering peppery essences sealing the deal.

Overall – while this is still a complex and complicated brew (don’t exactly know which way I’m swinging in that comparison, at the moment), it seems to maybe have lost a lot of the multi-fold grapefruit character so promised.  At any rate, a damned fine sour brew, even if I am not getting any of the titular gourd flavour (thank Jebus!).

Brady White

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